Fashion Alum Jen Sidary: “My life is now dedicated to supporting Ukraine”

This past New York Fashion Week, six Ukrainian designers jetset to New York to display bright and lively creations deriving from places of political hardship. Fluffy gowns and bright colors walked down the runways of New York Fashion Week, symbolizing creative freedom in times of tribulation. The displays were made possible thanks to fashion Alum Jen Sidary, who has made it her life’s mission to highlight Ukrainian fashion.

Before the Russian invasion of Ukraine, the business of fashion flourished from brands such as Valery Kolvaska, KULAKOVSKY, and TMosca. An industry worth 1.7 trillion as of 2022 is projected to be valued at 3.17 billion in Ukraine, with an annual growth of 8.23% (Statistica.) However, over the past few years, Ukrainian fashion was receiving a different amount of traction than it is now. Since the Russian invasion, international efforts by the fashion industry have gone into play to preserve creativity in Ukraine amidst struggle. More attention is now focused on Ukrainian designers and making sure their spot in the industry is secured. 

Zappos and Vivienne Westwood alum Jen Sidary is a trailblazer for Ukrainian fashion with a career dedicated to gaining exposure for small designers and campaigns. Sidary started Angelforfashion.com, an e-commerce website carrying over 60 Ukrainian-based designers and brands, and has “dedicated” her life to supporting Ukraine (Instagram.) This year she helped bring six designers under Freedom Fashion Ukraine to New York fashion week.

“In 2020 during Covid I worked for Informa Markets and because of the pandemic the company had layoffs in October because no in-person events were allowed to take place. A month later I took a leap of faith which would change my life forever and embarked on my first journey to Ukraine in November 2020 buying a one-way ticket to Kyiv. It’s incredible to think if it wasn’t for this, I would have never discovered this extremely talented Ukrainian fashion industry or met all these incredible people who I now consider family.” (Jen Sidary for Fashion Week Online.)

Before dedicating her career to Ukrainian fashion, Jen Sidary’s three-decade career in the industry began with her work as Head of Zappos Couture and President of Sales for Vivienne Westwood. Sidary now has her own fashion-consulting-agency, e-commerce website and is also a Women’s Wear Daily keynote speaker. 

“Angel For Fashion is an eCommerce website to support the Ukrainian fashion industry by helping the country’s most prominent fashion brands and designers to survive the war crisis,” Sidary states in her biography on jensidary.com. Through trying times in Ukraine, Sidary promotes her mission across all digital platforms, predominantly Instagram. On Instagram, Sidary can promote Ukrainian designers and give them opportunities to show in Paris and New York Fashion Week, which she has been doing for the past five years.

Over the past two years working with Angelsforfashion.com, Ukrainian designers have solidified their spots in worldwide fashion weeks thanks to efforts from Sidary. Products range from $100 jewelry and $1000+ custom-tailored pieces. With such a range, the e-commerce website has something for every type of consumer. Sidary’s mission of shining light on Ukrainian designers continues to be successful with high web traffic compared to other independently-ran e-commerce platforms. 

The six Ukrainian designers showed for New York Fashion Week 2023 were Chereshnivska (returning from the Ukrainian Paris Fashion Week last year,) Kulakovsky, POCHÉ, Samokish, TMosca, and Valery Kovalska. The shows were held at the exclusive COTERIE trade show at the Jacobs Javits Center in Hudson Yards, New York City. 

Fashion house Chereshnivska specializes in sustainable artistry and unisex upcycled fashion. Founded in 2016, creative director Anastasiya Rozava hand-draws prints for every collection. The house states, “We try to reflect the modern world and show it through the designs and prints” (Chereshnivska.com.) This past collection was inspired by the artists and sculptors native to Lviv, Ukraine, where the house is based. Chereshnivska and all brands below are available to purchase on Angelsforfashion.com.

Kulakovsky is a leather goods brand by Atrur Kulakovsky, who has been perfecting his leather craftsmanship for ten years in his family’s leather workshop. The brand aims to create long-lasting leather goods and outerwear that withstand rapid trend cycles. “KULAKOVSKY reimagines classic silhouettes into a new and original edit and encapsulates the synergy of distinct values: responsible sourcing, premium quality production and dedicated customer experience,” (Kulakovsky.online.) The brand has a “slow-fashion” approach, and each item is handcrafted with custom offerings available. 

POCHÉ Jewelry was founded by Ukrainian designers Tati Brailova and Nadya Syomik in 2019. They launched their brand on the cusp of a pandemic and war and take pride in their success despite these conditions. POCHÉ takes an extravagant approach to jewelry, desensitized by millennial minimalism. None of their pieces are ever deemed simple and are always eye-catching. The brand is entirely vegan and sustainable, taking a conscious approach to jewelry design. Rapper Machine Gun Kelly, Katy Perry, and Christina Aguilera are just a few of the famous connoisseurs of the brand. 

Samokish is a jewelry brand that began in 2010 by Kateryna Samokish, who used to create pieces purely as a hobby. “SAMOKISH brand is confidently conquering the Ukrainian market and not planning to stop at this. The plans are to enter the international market so that the whole world knows about the Ukrainian jewelry brand, which is proud of its origin, philosophy, and values” (Samokish.com.) All jewelry is handmade, embodying femininity with European quality and Ukrainian soul. 

TMosca’s offerings include knitwear and everyday basics, consisting of only the highest quality cotton, wool, and mohair. Some of their signature silhouettes take suits and dresses and decorate them head to toe with feathers. TMosca prides itself on exciting pieces and upgraded attire. 

Fashion house Valery Kovalska founded in 2010, produces explicitly “unique design prints, pleats, a commitment to playing with tuxedo architecture, sophisticated techniques and handicraft,” (Valerykovalska.com.) The brand dedicates itself to sustainability and anti-fur practices as part of the Fur Free Retailer community. In their past ready-to-wear collection, the brand explores the idea of “Neo-Couture,” a digital reinterpretation of the classic Haute Couture, offering consumers a more immersive experience. 

Supporting Sidary’s mission and buying from Angelforfashion.com means encouraging creativity in Ukrainian designers. The brands above are only six of the thousands of creatives in Ukraine experiencing financial and emotional hardship. A purchase from Angelforfashion.com only solidifies an international support system through a common field of passion; fashion. 

Lower East Side Designer Sandy Liang Paints Practical Femininity for FW 23’

Bows and ruffles hang from stalky and oversized silhouettes, as models strut in ballet flats and long skirts. Ball Gowns are cut above the knee, with draping shoulder details paired with leg warmers and sheer tights. The mesh is selective, leaving just enough to the imagination, decorated with signature roses and anime motifs. Traditionally boyish pieces are decorated with girly frills to present practical femininity; every piece is made to be worn, not just admired.

For her Fall/Winter NYFW 2023 collection, New York based designer Sandy Liang channeled motifs of bunnies, bows, ballet and pearls. The designs were feminine, yet uniformal, with short skirts styled with tights and puffer jackets decorated with ribbons tied into bows. High leg warmers were also a highlight of the show, paired with matching knit balaclavas and sweaters. Liang also extended her line of signature multi-color satin rose accessories in teal, red, pink and black.

The collection’s neutral palette of gray, black, white, brown, and burgundy was punctuated by monochromatic raiments of pinks and reds. Some looks also incorporated pops of purple seen in faux fur bags with matching knit turtlenecks.

Considering WGSN trend forecasts for 2023, Liang showcases her keen eye with repeated motifs throughout this latest collection. Roses, bows and legwarmers all had at least a 20% growth expectancy this year alone, and were all featured over 17 times in the show’s lookbook. That being said, not everything falls into trend for Liang. In what may be an homage to old fashion shows, Liang exhibits bridal looks; a move designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier have done for decades.

Before her rising success and editorial attention, Liang began her self-titled label in 2014 after graduating from Parsons School of Design. Liang currently supplies her designs through the Sandy Liang website and the Orchard street flagship store. Sandy Liang is also stocked by over 50 e-commerce websites such as SSENSE and Nordstrom. Making a distinct name for herself in luxury fashion, Liang paves her way through diversification of the popular “ballet-core,” with effortless ties to cool-girl silhouettes taking influence from Sailor Moon and select Studio Ghibli films such as Spirited Away and Kiki’s Delivery Service.

Growing up in her family’s Chinese restaurant, Liang takes great inspiration from her culture and frequent visits to Hong Kong. In her debut collection, Liang casted her Grandmother to star in her first campaign, posing in Chinatown, New York. In an interview with Style, Liang said, “The way I design everything is super personal. I’m always referencing my life. It seemed natural to me to ask my grandmother. Chinatown grandmothers were actually my first inspiration.”

This year, Liang showed a campaign dedicated to the Lunar New Year of the Rabbit, featuring signature Sandy Liang hairclips and necklaces with rabbit motifs. The campaign starred an actual white Rabbit, complete with models dressed head to toe in Sandy Liang accessories.

Sandy Liang continues to gain popularity for her signature designs on social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram. Her extensive everyday accessory line has become a core piece of her brand identity; girly and elegant, yet casual. Working closely with model Reign Judge and having designs seen Bella Hadid and Emma Chamberlain, Liang has found her in with Gen-Z fashion enthusiasts. Following her WildFlower phone case collaboration with notorious “Internet girls” Devon and Sydney Carslon, Liang also worked with photographer @StolenBesos on Instagram to capture her FW 2023 collection. Taking a more realistic approach to fashion photography, the photos were primarily taken with flash in nonchalant settings. Liang has solidified her place in current New York City fashion culture, and immersed her brand with the youth. Liang will continue to cement her spot in NYFW, and excite and grow her audience each year.

(All photos courtesy of Vogue Runway and @SandyLiang via Instagram)

Is Thin-Tradition Finally Retired in the Fashion Industry?

At the height of body positivity in the fashion industry, models up to a size 32 are seen walking down the runways of Versace, Fendi, and other luxury fashion houses. Being a size zero is no longer a requirement for women models. However, body standards still remain intact in menswear and as well as in houses such as Prada and YSL, who have never hired a plus size model, sticking to “thin-tradition.” Miuccia Prada, head creative director for heritage luxury fashion house Prada, nodded at plus-size models being on the runway as “trendy” and “a joke” in a WomenswearDaily interview. 

Thin tradition has been prevalent in the fashion industry since the dawn of time. Stemming back to the first fashion show in 1903, women with 24-inch waists were shown with shrunken 23-inch waists due to corsetry. Hyper-thin and small-waist were and still are the qualifications for being a successful model. Designers showed clothing to make models look thinner, utilizing vertical motifs and shapewear technologies. Fashion could only begin descending from thin tradition to body positivity in the past decade. 

Menswear is the most exclusive branch of fashion regarding casting models. No plus-size man has ever been cast by a high-profile luxury house to premiere in fashion week, but according to Vogue Business, Plus-size men told luxury fashion houses, “we’re coming for you.” Thus far, IMG is the only modeling agency to sign plus-size male models. However, smaller “emerging” brands such as Kiko Kostvdinov and Kidsuper were among the seven out of 77 brands to include plus-size men in their runways for Autumn/Winter 2022, leaving an indefinite gap in the market for plus-size luxury menswear and representation. 

Plus-size women have been walking the runways for about a decade in high fashion, with many being introduced each new season. Models such as Ashley Graham, Paloma Elsesser, and Precious Lee have paved their way on the runways of Versace, Ferragamo, and Fendi, making a name for plus-size women in modeling and the fashion industry. Elsesser’s Instagram bio reads, “some girls are just bigger than others,” with an overwhelming 544 thousand followers and a grid full of campaigns for Marni, Mugler, and Chanel, to name a few. Elsesser also starred in Victoria’s Secret’s latest campaign, highlighting body inclusivity, a new notion for the brand bashed for only hiring and praising thin models. Ashley Graham is known for her debut as the first plus-size woman ever to grace the cover of Sports Illustrated, a magazine specifically tailored to men, priorly featuring small models in tiny bikinis. 

Another problem for plus-size people in the industry is the issue of size inclusivity for ready-to-wear. Often, luxury fashion houses do not manufacture over a US size 10. The only plus-size pieces produced by these houses are custom tailored to their models for various fashion weeks. Smaller designers such as 161 Arlington have already adapted to this, offering up to size XXL; however, houses such as Prada and Dior still only offer slim pickings to their consumers and models.

Despite the new movements in implementing plus-size into high fashion, the size zero still reigns supreme, with no site of its dismissal. Models like Bella Hadid will always have their place in fashion, headlining runways as centerpieces and muses for designers.